How every self respecting sailor should look with Marigolds care of Danielle
Captain Paul
Having arrived in Bequia Paul did the usual and checked in at customs and we had a little walk along the main street surrounding Admiralty Bay. Nothing much had changed since our last visit at New Year, save that there seemed to be less of a friendly atmosphere around the place.
That evening we went for our sundowners at the local bar. Getting internet access was a good excuse for a drink. Couldn’t sit in the bar using the computer unless we had a drink or two.
We happened to meet up with a guy that Glyn did the Atlantic crossing with in 2007. He is called Bequia, don’t know why! He told us that there is just no work on the island. He is used to picking up the odd jobs on the boats that call to the island etc but at the moment there is nothing doing. That is probably why the feeling of anger is developing, especially in the younger people. No work means no money and no money means no food etc. etc.
We also found out that many of the young caribbeans are being recruited by the British Army. Now whilst it is good in a way for those being recruited, what are we doing when we have so many of our young unemployed, recruiting soldiers from around the world? It really does not make sense and I think questions should be asked. It seems a good way give our young people a little bit of self respect and purpose. They can always be trained away from the general troops if the army don’t want people who really don’t want to be there, but surely it would serve our country to get them working and off the dole and off the streets. That’s me falling off my soap box again. Sorry.
Prior to leaving Bequia we went to get some provisions and were amazed at the price being asked for fresh fruit and veg. A pound of sweet peppers, they were asking EC$24, roughly £6.00 per pound. A white cabbage was £2.00 per pound and tomatoes about £3.00 per pound. I was absolutely gob smacked and decided that I would wait until we reached St Vincent or St Lucia before having my 5 portions a day.
Bequia to St Vincent – 26 November
We set off quite early heading for St Vincent. If the conditions were good we would head on to St Lucia in one hop. It was a beautiful sail across the gap in the islands. Hauling 9 to 10 knots, although we had a 1 to 2 knot current against us, but it was really good sailing. As soon as we came in the lee of St Vincent the wind disappeared and we had to put the iron top sail on. We passed Walilabou bay and decided that as we had made such good time we would head on to St Lucia. No sooner had we made that decision, but the wind came up again 20 + knots smack on the nose. No point in head bashing so back we went to Walilabou Bay. Now Walilabou was one of the locations for Pirates of the Caribbean, Dead Man’s Chest. It was reported that the film set was still there and it would therefore be interesting to see it. We had been to the Bay in 1997 and so we had memories of the bay unspoiled.
It was quite sad really, the structures that had been made for the film had already fallen into disrepair; we were told that the damage was caused when hurricanes Ivan and Emily hit Grenada in 2004 and 2005 respectively.
Walibalou Bay St Vincent with some of the Pirates of the Caribbean scenery
It was however quite a hoot. Boat boys were in profusion selling their wares, be it fruit, veg, jewellery and various other artefacts. Paul and Glyn decided to go for a walk and came back to the boat looking quite pleased with themselves having tasted the local fruit juice. They had arranged to go ashore for a meal at Tony’s Pirates Retreat funnily enough where they had sampled the local juice). Tony said that his chef would start at 5 o/clock and so any time after that would be fine. We turned up at 7 and were treated to the Bob Marley tribute called One Love on DVD, with his sons and various other artists performing including Tracy Chapman. It was loud and good, but not as good as the real thing.
Anyway the local fruit juice re-appeared in the guise of beer, but then I am sure you would have guessed that already. Mine were rum punches. Not bad. We had a choice of Creole Chicken, Pork Ribs or fish. I went for the fish. Unfortunately the chef failed to materialise and Tony said that he was more than capable of cooking himself, but it did take a really long time I think at least an hour and a half before the meal was produced. We were sitting next to the kitchen and so the time passed quite quickly watching how he went about it. It seemed whatever you did you kept the gas flame up high and hoped for the best. However when it arrived it was extremely good. A nice Snapper was my fayre and I must say that it was a good choice.
Back to the boat and the end of a very pleasant evening. St Vincent however is a place that people warn you of and you must take care. The literature says not to walk up to the marijuana plantation alone and that probably sums it up.
27 November on to St Lucia
A good trip up to Marigot Bay. Once again last visited in 1997 and as often is the case it is foolish to return to the same place as it is often a disappointment. I have not seen a place change so much and I must say not for the better. When we were here before it was a lovely island retreat shielded from the sea by palm trees and hills. Now however having taken away a lot of the palm trees and dredged the bay, it is open to the sea and it is now an upmarket holiday resort for Sandals and the Moorings etc. Apparently it is extremely pleasant viewing the sea from the land but not so good from the sea looking in. You cannot anchor in the bay and have to pick up a mooring buoy. The boys were charging $EC65 = to £16.00 for one night on a buoy. We found a place to anchor on the outskirts of the bay and that was fine by us. We cruisers are on a fixed budget don’t you know.
The marina is busy getting ready for the 2008 arrivals. The marina has changed beyond recognition, having replaced the old pontoons with very impressive docks, very well laid out and big enough to house the QE2, well maybe not quite that big. However it will be interesting to see how the ARC participants react to what could be a severe lack of access to electricity (they have fitted US type supplies and European boats will need an adapter. Unfortunately the marina only has 3 available and they are out on hire.
They are busily preparing the grounds to make them look nice for the influx of yachts but at the present time there are only a few toilets available as they have not been able to build the new shower/toilet facilities in time.
However they have worked tirelessly to get as far as they have and hopefully by 2009 the whole thing will be up and running like clockwork. Good luck to them.
We will stay in the marina until Friday. The first of the ARC participants could arrive this weekend and the marina will be a very busy place. We will head off to Martinique being the last of the Windward Islands and then on to Dominica.
This is Glyn
I will update you en-route. Thanks for reading my story and keep watching this space.
Rain, yes this is rain over the norther hills of St Vincent taken from the sea
What blog would be complete without a Caribbean sunset
Best wishes in your preparations for Christmas.
Helen and Paul
Helen Mary Gee
Nice to see you get rain too
Oh yes and when it rains, it rains, believe me